Hi all, I would also like to modify our database on the NIMAR 303D.
I see that it’s somehow semi-universal and many versions for the
EOS 300D, EOS350D, EOS400D, Nikon D40x etc. exist.

Each must be different and I’d like to now how many buttons, strobe
sockets etc. are on your version and what you have paid for it.

Thank you all in advance!

Hello!
I’ve finally received my NI303D ("dressed" for Canon EOS 400D). My first shout was “oh it’s huge!”. This is something one should insist when presenting housings in general; while point-and-shoot housings are big, reflex cameras’ housings are really big, especially if they are multi-version ones like this one.
So there is a quick description : The housing comes with a spare O-ring, an additionnal lock, some more button rubber pads and silicon grease; you also have a little plastic multitool which is not very strong, so if you want to really screw and unscrew stuff, you want to use the steel equivalent of the tools (completely standard ones, BTW). It rather widely fits the EOS 400d, which brings a rather strongly positive buoyancy, maybe even enough to make one consider adding weight to it.
I was amazed by the big number of buttons available on the housing : a wide “shoot” lever, three rotating buttons, giving you access to “on/off”, the main mode selection dial and the little selection whell at the front for aperture settings (this one being very encouraging as many people told me that TTL was probably not going to work). Buttons include “menu”, “display” and “picture viewing” (but not “jump” or “delete"), and the arrows on the right of the screen and the center “OK” button. these all seem rather easy to use in a swimming pool, I’ll let you know how it feels like 25 meters underwater. Notice the standard dome port does not allow zooming, even though there is a similar port that supposedly allows it (and the ports are baillonette-fitted).
Some more details I can mention : without any point of comparison except for the screen of my point-and-shoot camera, aiming seems quite easy even without the magnifying option. But if you don’t want your housing and your expensive camera to zoom upwards when you let go of it, you may want to make sure your strobe arm provides ways of securing the whole stuff to your BCD, because the housing itself hasn’t got any attachment point of this kind. And you may want to go and have a look at the manufacturer’s website, their English is a good laugh (even though I’m not really the one to tell this). I can’t remember mentioning the price : I got it for 619€ via Ebay, but brand new and as a “direct sale” (normal manufacturer price is 699€ or something like that). Count a fortnight for preparing and then a TNT delivery.

More details about it when I get back from the Red Sea!

When my local divegear pusher call’d e’m he found that only one person in the hole fabric spoke English. And it’s someone in the production area. So when you call e’m they have to run out to get him to the phone.

Kenneth

Sorry about my incomplete report : I forgot to mention on of the buttons, that allows access to +/-, used for over/under expose AND to control all manual exposure parameters. I must say that the size of the housing makes it rather complicated to use, because you’re not used to dealing with this kind of things with both hands out of the water.

Hi j_eckard.
Is it possible to get some pictures of your housing?

Of course, here they are!
Let me add that the top and handles attach points are 10Bar compatible....

And some more....

And the last ones! If you want better quality pictures (for the “material” section, for example), let me know.

Yes that look’s the same as my conections. I dont have that slade for focuslight on top of the housing.
But that’s ok. I’m trying to build some light’s with LED.

Have you had your gear in the water yet?

Kenneth

In a swimming pool, actually.... It has got a rather strong positive buoyancy, and I’ve borrowed so dynamometers from my school (I’m a teacher) to measure how much, and maybe try to compensate with some added weight; there’s room inside the housing on the right-hand side of the camera, so maybe I’ll be able to tug some lead there! Looking forward to seeing airport security looking at the piece of lead and pushing the X-ray to try to see through....

Y’a that will be fun

I’m planning for a trip to the clearest water in the world this year.
(If my boddy can get some time of from the Army)
So i can get some nice pictures.

Kenneth

Where are you going?
And what did you do about this buoyancy thing? Is it annoying, or not enough to go through the trouble I’m about to start with?

I would not concern to much on the buoyancy. Try it in the water before you deside.

I want to go to Island for some freshwater diving.

http://www.dive.is

Kenneth

Thanks for the advice about the buoyancy, the problem is that I will only be able to test-dive it in the Red Sea.... But it’s nearly impossible not to float (guy+camera) if you use it wearing only a swimsuit!
Island look wonderful (such clear water!), but I don’t think I could do that.... I only have got a “comfortable warm seas” PADI certification, not the “rocks and chilly water”. What have you got?
And I was wondering if you knew how many dives you can do with a tiny dissicant pack?

First you have to tell me what is : tiny dissicant pack?
( I don’t know what that mean )

When you are on your tour to Red Sea: Take it for a short testdive. And if you feel that the kamera need’s more weight you just take a single lead block and attach it under the housing using some plastic strips. You know the one’s police use as handcofs. That way you can easely place it under the house between the handles.
And ad more or take less if needed. Having the extra weight under the houseing will also help you balance your camera when shooting.

I’m PADI AOWD. Mostly diving in The Baltic Sea and the Westcoast of Sweeden.
My coldest dive ever was some years ago in Baltic Sea.
The temprature was -2*C That’s 28,4 Fahrenheit IN A WETSUIT!!!

Kenneth