Doe’s someone know about a Slave-Sensor to use my old “analog” Flash with my new digital camera?

I think Ikelite has one. But Im not shure…

Flex

Ikelite do do them HOWEVER
they have a new digital one that deals with preflash .... wahay

but that only works with their digital strobe boooo :cry:

so you are in luck as long as your camera does not have a preflash ... or you can at least turn it off on the camera.

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/dsensors.html

also the non digital sensor ... fits their non digital strobes .. and requires 50 hr battery change and can’t deal with pre flash .. (although i have heard of ways around that ... but it’s fidley)
I believe you can get connector adapters to make them work with other brands but would not know where ...
is your strobe Ikelite? if not have a look at the manufacturers website .. see what they have to offer ...
Giles

Hi Flex !

look at this side: http://www.muenster.de/~matthias/blitz/index.htm

Matthias has build a slave sensor for use with nikonos-compatible flashes and digital cameras.

Udo

Thanks.

I got one a few days ago…

Hi guys, i have a canon Powershot G2 in an Ikelite housing with a DS 50 strobe and Ds sensor #4100.5. In auto mode the camera doesnt always fire the internal flash to fire the strobe so I can’t use that.  In M (manual) it fires the strobe but always at full strength and overexposes the picture.  In P, Tv and Av modes, with the flash selected to ON, the strobe fires but I end up with a dark picture!  It’s as though the strobe fires either too late or too early.  It appears to fire at shutter release but obviously not!  The Ds sensor is set to pre-flash and its all set up as per the illustrations.  Does anybody else have this set up and what settings work best?  Been taking film piccies for years so am familiar with different Ap and speed settings. Any advice accepted!  Cheers[color=yellow:c0e5c93708][/color:c0e5c93708]

Do you mean that you have just got an adaptor from Matthias? If so how does it perform and what digital camera and housing do you have?

Hi guys,
i have two Sea and Sea strobes YS60 TTL/N +YS60 TTL/S and i use them
with two digi adapters from Matthias my camera is a Olympus C3000z
in a PT10 housing the adapters are working very well !

editing 21.01.2004 : my HP is online
http://www.mike-dive.de
it is a German HP but I`m still working at the english version !

Mikedive

Hi
I just posted a note under: “forum > canon > Canon A80 Powershot and WP-DC900 case experience” - where I was commenting on the fact that I am considering the DS-50 strobe but was confused by a comment on ikelite’s website that says: “The underwater strobes can not provide TTL with some of the smallest digital cameras like Canon “A” and “S” series. The Manual Controller is recommended with these cameras.”

It sounds like that is the problem you are running into. Have you tried contacting ikelite or heard of any solutions?? As I said in the other forum, I don’t consider the camera I have - the Canon A80 - to be “one of the smallest”. I am not familiar with your particular camera.
I haven’t really been able to figure out where their slave sensor gets attached - is it on the housing right in front of the camera’s flash? Could it be their slave sensor is not all it is cracked up to be?

I’ll be interested in any comments or ideas that come back here.
Cheers,
Togo

I have a sunpak g-flash, which was only $200.00. It has modes for digital preflash or normal camera mode, as well as a dialable power output. It wasn’t very easy to find, but it could possibly replace your existing out-of-water flash. It also came with the frame to attach to the camera housing and also came with a diffuser. That may save some money rather than buying both a flash and flash sensor. I use this with the coolpix 4300 and the fantasea housing.

I did a ton of research before buying this setup, and for the price, I feel I got the best value available. If you are in the market and confused, I hope that helps.

The cable solution for digital cameras, for those of you wondering, is a piece of fiber optic cable that attaches right in front of your existing flash. It then attaches to the flash sensor on the external flash. However, it has a device that waits for the two flashes from the camera before flashing 1 light at your existing flash to trigger it.

Hope that helps,
Matt

I’m thinking of getting one. Where did you buy it from?

B&H Photo has it. They were out of stock when I wanted one and I went with something else, but they have since become available again.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=307876&is=REG

Hope that helps,
Corey

Have you used the G-Flash underwater yet? How are the pics? Any you can post?  It is a very attractive price but I’m concerned it won’t be powerful enough. Does it have a slave optic sensor cable or does it rely on reflected light to trigger? Any issues with that so far underwater?
Please let me know your experiences with it.

I have the G Flash and it seems fine. I am going to use it in clear water this weekend in Florida. The last attempt was in a cave dive and the water was so full of silt that the bounce back ruined the photos. I turned the flash to minimum and had better but not good results.

The G Flash works with reflected light. It has a supplied cover which allows you to diffuse the flash. It’s cheap and gives great illumination topside. Hopefully it will work - I’ll let you know next week.

The results are very disappointing, not because of the Sunpak but I found an issue with the Nikon and the fantasea housing. The Nikon shuts down on its own after a couple of minutes and there is no way from outside the housing to turn it back on again. I set the monitor to be on for 30 minutes (the maximum) to stop the power down but this chewed the battery life up so fast I only got one dive.

On that dive my buddy had issues and we had to surface so I did not get a chance to test it properly. However, the fantasea housing does seem to have a serious shortcoming in this respect.

Does anyone know a way to keep the camera from powering down which does not keep the monitor on at all times?